Blue Ridge Hiking At Peaks of Otter

Johnson Farm

One of the first tourist centers in the Blue Ridge Parkway was The Peaks of Otter dating back to the mid nineteenth century. Today it includes camping, a hotel, restaurant and Visitors Center with a number of interesting trails to hike.

One, the Johnson Farm Trail takes you past a restored mid-1800s farm. The Johnson Family homestead includes the farmhouse, a barn, a spring house, antique farm equipment, a garden and orchard. While the grounds are always open for those hiking the trail, if you go during operating hours, park volunteers are on hand to answer questions and give tours of the farmhouse. Ask at the Visitor Center about current hours.

The Meadow

There are a number of hiking trails at Peaks of Otter but The Johnson Farm Trail is a favorite because of the farm and because it connects to the Harkening Trail which passes Balance Rock. If you stop at the Peaks of Otter Visitor Center (MP 85.9) a .3-mile connector trail leads to the start of the Johnson Farm Loop Trail. But starting there adds an extra .6-mile, round trip, to that hike. To save that half mile park at the lower lot of the Peaks of Otter Lodge, which is just a half mile north of the Visitor Center. From there look for a paved path that leads through a tunnel under the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will find the start of this trail on the other side. You can also access the Abbott Lake Loop Trail from this parking lot but instead of crossing under the Parkway, keep walking along the paved path for this easy, 1-mile hike that circles the lake.

Because The Johnson Farm Trail is a loop, you can hike either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, but if you want to have less steep uphill climbing, hike in the counterclockwise direction, which is the way the trail sign is pointing. The farm is a reasonably moderate .75 mile hike up the trail, which is near the halfway point on this hike. If you continue on past the farm on the loop trail there is a fork off to the right that is the Harkening Hill Trail that will will take you to Balance Rock which is about a mile one way. Taking the entire Harkening Loop Trail back to your start will be an additional 3.6 miles.

Spring house
Abbott Lake

Shortly after starting the Johnson Farm Trail counterclockwise, the trail forks and you need stay on the left fork. Soon after that you will find yourself crossing an expanse of meadow and passing the site of the old Hotel Mons which dates back to the mid-1800s.

In 1857, a father and son named Benjamin and Leyburn Wilkes purchased the land, including the mountains around the Peaks of Otter area. They had been running a small boarding house since 1849 and believed that tourism was the future. The same year they purchased the land, they began construction on the first true hotel in the area, the Otter Peaks Hotel. Up until then, any lodging for tourists was done in private homes or small boarding houses. The most popular was run by Polly Wood, widow of Jeremiah Wood who was a grandson of the original settler of Peaks of Otter, Thomas Wood. The inn was known as Polly Wood’s Ordinary, and it still stands today on the shore of Abbott Lake near the Peaks of Otter Picnic Area. Polly Wood’s ordinary closed in the early 1850s not being able to compete with the new hotel.

Peaks of Otter Hiking Trails

Sharp Top Trail (1.5 miles to the summit) Strenuous 3 hours

Originates at the Nature Center across the Parkway from the Visitor Center. This is a steep route and you should be in good health. There is no drinking water on the trail, so take water with you. The summit offers an impressive 360-degree view of the Peaks of Otter area, the Piedmont to the east, and the Shenandoah Valley with the Allegheny mountains to the west. Add an extra half-hour to take spur trail to Buzzard’s Roost, large rock formations offering good views of the area. Note: There is concession-operated bus service (one-way or round trip) to within 0.25 mile of the top seasonally.

Elk Run Loop (0.8 mile) Moderate to strenuous 1 hour

Begins behind the visitor center. It is a moderately strenuous trail and is self-guiding with written displays describing the forest environment.

Harkening Hill Loop Trail (3.3 miles)Moderate 5+ hours

Begins behind the visitor center and across from the amphitheater. This woodland trail climbs to a ridge with good views. A spur trail near the summit leads to Balance Rock, an immense boulder balanced on a small rock. Connects to Johnson Farm Loop Trail.

Johnson Farm Trails (1.8+ miles)Moderate 2+ hours

A loop trail, approximately two miles long, which follows a section of the Harkening Hill loop trail. Beginning at the north end of the visitor center parking area, the trail leads 1.1 miles to the Johnson Farm, originally built in the 1850s.

Flat Top & Fallingwater Cascades Trails (6.5 mile) Moderate to strenuous

Was designated a continuous National Recreation Trail in April 1982. Flat Top rises to an elevation of 4,004 feet with many scattered rock outcrops. On this trail, hikers climb and descend 1,600 feet from the Parkway trail heads. Fallingwater Cascades Trail is a loop trail which takes hikers along cascades on Fallingwater Creek with its huge rock outcrops with rhododendron and hemlock forest. This trail descends 260 feet from the Fallingwater Trail Parking Area and experiencing this mountain cascade is well worth the effort.

Abbott Lake Trail (1 mile) Easy under 1 hour

The least difficult of Peaks of Otter trails, is a one-mile loop around Abbott Lake. The trail through a woodland forest and open field, offering close-up views of the lake. Trail is ADA Accessible.

Autumn In The Blue Ridge Mountains

A two minutes of video of the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina and Virginia. Featured are scenes of the Mabry Mill , Mingo Falls, the Linville River and Linville Falls.

Enjoy the Zen of the moment…

Elk In The Appalachians • An Encounter

It’s been some time since I read anything about the reintroduction of elk into the North Carolina mountains and I hadn’t given it any thought when planning our Blue Ridge Parkway trip. It was an unexpected encounter when we found elk in the forest.

Reintroduction of elk into Great Smoky Mountains National Park began in 2001 when 25 elk were brought from the Land Between the Lakes National Area of Tennessee. In 2002, the National Park Service imported another 27 animals.

So far the elk seem to be improving the mountain forest environment as the elks’ grazing is active enough to stimulate good plant regrowth. They keep fields clear by keeping the grasses shorter and make it easier to navigate for smaller animals, such as rabbit or turkey, and also make it easier for birds of prey to search through the shorter grasses. They are also adding to the network of game trails in the forest. However the elk have been missing from this environment for over a hundred years and researchers are still studying the impact of their reintroduction watching for signs of stress.

After our surprise at finding the elk grazing near the Oconaluftee Visitors Center on our first evening in the mountains we returned to hike a nearby forest trail early the next morning.

As we got to the Visitors Center there were again a number of elk cows in the meadow and within a half hour on the trail we could hear bull elk calls and vocalizations across the river. As we approached the Oconaluftee river a cow approached along with three calves and began to ford the river.

Within minutes a bull came out of the forest calling to the cow.

What an amazing beginning to our Appalachian expedition!

Morning fog in the Smoky Mountains

Two Military History Museums

Most country’s histories are, to a significant extent, defined by war and in that regard the history of their military is an integral part of the nations story. On two recent trips we’ve taken the time to visit some remarkable museums. Both are incredible facilities that don’t just recount history but do it in a thoroughly engaging way.

Special Operations Museum
Special Operations Museum
Special Operations Museum

Just this week on our return from our Blue Ridge Mountain exploration we spent the night in Fayetteville, North Carolina and took a couple of hours to visit the U.S. Army Airborne & Special Operations Museum at Fort Bragg – 100 Bragg Blvd, Fayetteville, NC 28301 (910 643-2778).

This fascinating museum tells the story of the various Army specialized warfare elements and the battles they were involved in. The exhibits cover the birth of Army Airborne, Rangers and Special Forces from World War II to the War On Terror. There are detailed exhibits on the key people involved in planning, creation and deployment of Army Special Operations forces along with large displays of men and equipment in the field.

Special Operations Museum

Not long ago we also visited The National Infantry Museum at Ft. Benning, Georgia – 1775 Legacy Way, Columbus, Georgia 31903 (706 685 5800)

The National Infantry Museum

Very similar in size and scope to the Ft. Bragg museum, the infantry museum looks at the Army’s infantry divisions, the leaders and soldiers and their stories throughout America’s history.

The National Infantry Museum
The National Infantry Museum
The National Infantry Museum

There are lessons being told in these buildings that every American should be exposed to and best of all these museums are free.

PLEASE NOTE: The Army Special Operations Museum is currently open but the Infantry Museum is closed because of the COVID-19.

The National Infantry Museum
Special Operations Museum

Visiting Where The United States Was Born

Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery

The United States of America owes much of what it is today to a strip of land between the James and York Rivers as they flow into the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. This strip of land is where the first successful English colony was established in America, was one of the locations where the political foundations of the American Revolution were laid and where the final battle was fought that won America its independence.

In 1607 three English ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery, sailed into the Chesapeake Bay and 104 settlers set out to establish a settlement in North America. They named it Jamestown. Many of those first settlers died of disease and from Indian attacks but new arriving ships brought more settlers and by 1610 the colony was firmly established. An extended peace was established after the marriage of colonist John Rolfe to Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhatan the regional chief. During the 1620s, Jamestown expanded from the area near the original fort into a small town. It remained the capital of the Virginia colony until 1699 when the capital was moved eight miles northwest to the larger settlement of Williamsburg.

Powhatan Indian makes canoes
Continental army encampment

Thus began the successful English colonization of North America. Within less than another one hundred years, on that same strip of land General George Washington of the Continental Army would defeat the English army under the command of Lieutenant General Charles Cornwallis. That victory established the security of America as a new nation.

Visiting this area of Virginia is as near as you can get to traveling back in time to explore the beginnings of our nation.

The Yorktown area features the Yorktown Battlefield National Park along with a truly impressive American Revolution Museum. On the property of the museum stands a reconstruction of a 1780’s period farm as it would have looked at the time of the battle along with a Continental Army encampment featuring live demonstrations.

Not far from Yorktown is the Jamestown Settlement site. It features a demonstration Powhatan tribal village developed from drawings of the historic period. An informative museum dedicated to the history surrounding the Jamestown settlement and the people that made it possible, along with a replica of the original Fort James. Tied up on the river next to the fort are reproductions of the boats Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery that carried the settlers to their new world. Also nearby is the archaeological site owned and managed through a private/public partnership between Preservation Virginia and the National Park Service to excavate and explore the site of the original fortified town.

Williamsburg

Only a few miles away is Colonial Williamsburg, a living-history museum, restoration and development of a historic district on the site of the original Williamsburg, Virginia. Its 301-acre historic area includes several hundred restored and re-created buildings from the 18th century period, when the city was the capital of the colony of Virginia. Much of the site features people in period costumes working as they would have three hundred years ago.

Impressions of Colonial Williamsburg Virginia

If you really want to see where this nation was born come visit Tidewater Virginia.

Williamsburg

History In The Appalachian Mountains

Johnson farm at Peaks of Otter

Traveling on this trip up the Blue Ridge Parkway is actually a return to my childhood. I have a connection to those mountain farms of North Carolina as my Father was born and raised on one and I remember spending time there off and on in the late 1950’s. At that time the farm had electricity but still no indoor plumbing. You hand pumped water and it was boiled on a wood-burning stove to fill a copper bathtub. I remember mornings splitting wood for the stove and walking across the yard at night to the privy. On the farm they raised crops (stringing green beans and shucking corn), kept hogs and chickens and had a couple of cows. While they had a radio for entertainment it only picked up one station but there was always guitars, fiddles and autoharps and on weekends there was a dance somewhere nearby. I still find it hard to believe how far we’ve come in the past number of decades.

Today sitting on the mountainsides of the Smokey and Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia and North Carolina are living history lessons covering the early years of America. Restored and preserved farms, mountain homesteads, water powered mills, apple orchards and historic names tell a uniquely American story.

Johnson farm at Peaks of Otter

The people who pushed west from the Atlantic coast and settled these mountains, beginning in the late seventeenth century were generally Scots, Irish and English. Those farmers and craftsmen were used to hard work and were not threatened by the harsh environment of these rugged Southern mountains.

Many Scots left the British Isles and came to America in the early 18th century moving into the mountains of Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. They were descendants of Scots who had survived decades of fighting against English invaders who had pushed them back into the hill country of Scotland and they held a strong belief in independence and a love of liberty. These harsh mountains reminded them of the mountainous lands of their Scotland.

Early English immigrants also migrated from the Tidewater regions of Virginia and North Carolina and were the descendents of original settlers in the colonies or were recent immigrants who found most of the best land taken and prices for existing homesteads beyond their means. There were also people of faith, such as Baptists, Presbyterians, and Quakers, and were leaving Tidewater in order to escape discrimination, persecution, and taxes levied by the English to support the Anglican Church in the colonies.

Mingus Mill at the Smoky Mountains National Park

Like the Scots-Irish, the English settlers brought with them an intense devotion to the principles of liberty, law, and justice. In their heritage was the story of a long struggle for individual rights against centuries of oppression in England.

Not only do historic sites survive in these mountains but the very culture today is still a reflection of those early settlers heritage. Bluegrass music is a form of unique American music with roots in these mountains and is a sub-genre of country music. It is an American variation of Irish, Scottish and English traditional music. Bluegrass evolved from the music of those immigrants from England and Ireland, particularly the Scots-Irish. Irish ballads, jigs and reals are still common music forms found here and bagpipes, autoharps, fiddles, the tin whistle, flute and pipes are still popular in mountain music.

Clogging festival

Irish step dancing is still a popular dance form in the mountains but is often expressed as clogging in the mountains today.

Scottish Tartans are still recognized in the Blue Ridge Mountains and the clans still gather each year at the MacRae Meadows on Grandfather Mountain for their Highland Games.

Mabry Mill on The Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

The strong beliefs in independence, democracy and religious liberty that permeated the mountain culture made these people dedicated supporters of the American Revolution. They were strong believers in the cause and provided many men to the Continental Army. The most notorious group from the western slopes of the mountains in Virginia, North Carolina, and what is now Tennessee and Kentucky were the Overmountain Men. The name came from the belief that they were outside the original thirteen colonies on the other side of the mountain.

They were American frontiersmen from western ranges of the Appalachian Mountains who took part in the Revolutionary War. While they were present at multiple engagements in the war’s southern campaign, they are best known for their role in the American victory at the Battle of Kings Mountain in 1780. The term “overmountain” arose because their settlements were west of, or “over”, the Appalachians, which was the primary geographical boundary dividing the 13 American colonies from the western frontier.

Because of the strong support in the mountains for the revolution these mountain people were very loyal to their new country and the government of The United States of America and contrary to popular opinions today, including many Southerners, they did not support secession and as states in the southern United States moved toward secession, a majority of Southern Appalachians supported the Union. These people were mostly small, independent farm families that held little sympathy for and were very politically opposed to the planter-dominated Southern Democratic party. In 1861, a Minnesota newspaper had actually identified 161 counties in the Southern mountains, which the paper referred to as “Alleghenia”, where Union support remained strong.

Farm Museum Oconaluftee Visitors Center Smoky Mountain National Park

While these people were strong Unionists and opposed secession they also saw themselves as citizens of their individual states and when their legislatures voted to secede, some, out of loyality, shifted their support to the Confederacy. Nowhere in the country was the pain of brother fighting against brother more real than in the mountains, hollows and valleys of Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee.

Johnson farm at Peaks of Otter

Fifty years after the Civil War most mountain communities remained isolated with a way of life stuck in the early nineteenth century. As American cities rushed into the twentieth century many mountain farms still had no indoor plumbing or electricity. Cooking and heating was done with wood much as their grandparents had done.

The Rural Electrification Act of 1936 was designed to provided for the installation of electrical distribution systems to serve isolated rural areas of the United States like the mountains of Appalachia and with the TVA (Tennessee Valley Authority) it began to provided electricity to the rural south in order to help stimulate the economy and industrialize the region. As ambitious as it was it didn’t happen overnight and by 1950 its own records indicated that it was less than one third of the way to the goal.

Farm Museum Oconaluftee Visitors Center Smoky Mountain National Park

If you have the opportunity to visit the Smokeys or Blue Ridge Mountains don’t overlook these incredible windows into our countries beginnings and not so distant past.

Johnson farm at Peaks of Otter