Key West, The Historic, Exotic Island You Can Drive To

Part Two – Key West in the Florida Keys

  1. An Introduction To The Florida Keys
  2. Key West, A Different Sort of Place
  3. Where to Dine In The Keys
  4. Is It Time To Visit The Keys Again? (coming soon)

Key West is the exclamation mark at the end of the sentence that is the Keys. This town has been a magnet for adventurers, the famous and fortune seekers for well over a hundred years. Over the years it has attracted a number of the rich and famous including Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Kelly McGillis, Jimmy Buffet, Calvin Klein, Shel Silverstein, Truman Capote, Winslow Homer, Ralph Lauren, Robert Frost, Kenny Chesney and Harry Truman (his winter White House). Not too shabby for a city of 20,000.

Its residents have been navy men, shrimpers, fishermen, cigar makers, treasure hunters and more than a few people seeking a place to get lost. Today Key West is known for history, bars, its Cuban heritage, bars, great seafood, bars, water sports, bars and more than a few traditions.

The Sun sets behind Sunset Key off Mallory Square
The Sun sets behind Sunset Key off Mallory Square

How many places do you know where they celebrate sunset with a festival every day? The sunset celebration is downtown at Mallory Square where musicians, jugglers, tightrope walkers, crafters, food vendors, locals and tourists gather to celebrate the end of another day as the Sun sets behind Sunset Key. It is such an institution that cruise ships that frequently dock next to Mallory Square are required to leave before sunset so they don’t block the view for the celebrants.

Crowds and entertainers gather at Mallory Square to celebrate sunset

Getting around Key West has a number of odd options
Tourists cruising around Key West

The town has also become famous for a number of annual events like Fantasy Fest in late October an annual 10-day party in paradise for grown-ups. Started in 1979 by a group of Key West locals. The party was created to bring visitors to the island and has completely grown out of control. Pay attention to the word “adult” in the description, cause this town gets pretty crazy on a normal day but Fantasy Fest is over the top. There are also Hemingway Days where Ernest look-a-likes come from all over for a chance to claim the title of Papa for a year. Check out the calendar and you will probably find very few weeks with nothing going on in this town.

Key west also has a number of worthy attractions and a few less so. John J. Audubon lived here and his home is maintained as a museum along with Hemingway’s house and Harry Truman’s Winter White House, all open to the public. There is also a really nice aquarium, Mel Fishers Maritime Museum, the Shipwreck Treasure Museum and believe it or not a Ripley’s Believe It or Not museum.

Souvenir options by the bushel
Souvenir options by the bushel
Sloppy Joe's Bar
Sloppy Joe’s

In addition to the festivities there are a number of other things you will find Key West famous for. First is key lime pie, a delicacy invented in the keys. Be sure to take a bottle of key lime juice and a recipe with you when you leave. The city is home to a large Cuban population that brought their cigar making skills with them. There are a number of hand-rolled Cuban cigar makers in Key West. It is also famous for leather sandals (flip flops) and the oldest manufacturer is Kino located right downtown. Their leather sandals sell for $10 to $20. I’ve rarely gone to Key West without taking home a pair or two.

Key Lime Shop
Key Lime Shop

This town is also famous for its seafood (fish, Florida lobster and shrimp), snorkeling and diving and its bars. Perhaps its most famous bar is Sloppy Joe’s on Duval Street where Ernest Hemingway hung out.  Southwest of Sloppy Joe’s is Tony’s Bar where Jimmy Buffet was a regular (it was also the original location of Sloppy Joe’s) and there’s also Hogs Breath Saloon. Hogs Breath probably sells as many Tee Shirts as beers and who doesn’t want a T that says “Hogs Breath is Better than no Breath at All”.

Key West is also a U.S. Navy base with a Naval Air Station and research facilities. When I was in the Navy we stopped in Key West a few times. There were submarine pens right near downtown and evenings at Sloppy Joe’s was a study in white with wall to wall sailors in bright dress uniforms.

Market Square at Front and Wall

When visiting there are a number of opportunities to do some snorkeling or diving along with boat trips to the Marquesas Keys and the Key West National Wildlife Refuge or the Dry Tortugas National Park. Key West was also home base for Treasure Salvors the operation headed by Mel Fisher that found the wreck of the richest Spanish treasure galleon, the Atocha, just to the southwest  in fifty-five feet of water. Be sure and visit their museum.

Back To The Florida Keys? (In 4 Parts)

When I was a kid growing up in the Northeast more than a few years ago, I thought Florida was the promised land, paradise and the most exotic place I could imagine – all rolled up in one. I was in my twenties before I ever made it there but I had long dreamed of turquoise water, coral reefs, palm trees and warm tropical weather. Later I visited Florida a few times on business and on a vacation and my dreams remained intact. About forty years ago we relocated to Ft. Lauderdale with a job. While there are more than a few people who don’t care for Florida, we loved it.

At the time we moved to Florida, Ft. Lauderdale airport was a single, one-story cinderblock building with twelve parking meters out front. The movie “Where the Boys Are” was still inspiring spring-break college students to the degree that we wouldn’t even try to get to the beach during spring-break because of the traffic and mobs. By late June each year many neighborhoods were all but abandoned and restaurants, if they were open, had few customers. Jump ahead a couple of decades and things have really changed. More business meant more employees. More employees meant more families and that meant more children and all that meant a growing year-round economy. Things were changing and not all for the better.

When I was in the Navy I was a diver and fell in love with coral reefs. In all the forty-eight mainland states only Florida offers coral reefs. If you’ve never glided over or thru a coral reef you have missed one of life’s great experiences and you should try it as quickly as you can. Many people plan trips to tropical places for the beaches and warm water but for very little extra money and effort a coral reef is only a short swim away.

The main attractions in Florida are fishing, boating, beach-combing and diving. Everything is focused on the water. After we moved to Florida, for a number of years every Sunday morning would find us at the beach. It started with breakfast and the Sunday paper, progressed to beach combing and sunbathing and ended with an onshore dive at a nearby reef. It just didn’t get any better than that.

Soon we discovered the Florida Keys and now we had a get-away place for weekends. In those days summer was the best time to go to “the Keys”. Like the rest of Florida, summer was off-season and hotels were cheap. As Florida residents we could frequently find deals at four star hotels that included breakfast and dinner for two for less than a hundred dollars a day! The Keys were everything we loved about Florida and more.

Just recently we spent a week in the Florida Keys. With the exception of Key West it has been over ten years since we’ve been in the Keys and that was way too long. Last September hurricane Irma rolled over the southern Keys as a category four storm. That explains the question mark in this title. Category four hurricanes are incredibly destructive and it always takes time to recover. Part of this trip was to see what progress has been made. This post is presented in four parts:

  1. An Introduction To The Florida Keys
  2. Key West, A Different Sort of Place 
  3. Where to Dine In The Keys (coming soon)
  4. Is It Time To Visit The Keys Again? (coming soon)

Seattle’s Pike Place Market

 

 

Seattle’s Pike Place Market

Many cities have farmers markets and open-air venues where growers and craftsmen sell their goods. Over the years many have become local institutions and some boast regional reputations but there is only one Pike Place Market.

When you come to Seattle some time at the market is a must. On our first family visit to this city we spent an afternoon at Pike’s Place Market. We visited the aquarium, my wife bought flowers and we left with a bundle of steamed Dungeness crab for a feast back at our hotel. We’ve been to Seattle a number of times since and have always made time for a visit to Pike’s Place.

Pike Place Market has been a part of Seattle’ story for a long time. Leading up to the summer of 1907 the rapid growth of the city had produced a system of wholesalers who had taken control of the buying and selling of fisherman’s catches, farm produce, dairy products and dozens of other commodities. They had over the previous years driven retail prices up in the boom-town while reducing their wholesale costs. The situation was growing out of control when Seattle City Councilman, Thomas Revelle put forward a proposal where the city would create a public market where fisherman, farmers and citizens could come to sell and buy goods directly in an open market.

Beginning on August 17, 1907, crowds of shoppers seeking fish, produce and hard goods flocked to the new marketplace. In just weeks, dozens of sellers were gathering daily to sell along the created road named Pike Place.

Frank Goodwin, who had made a fortune in the Klondike Gold Rush, began building the permanent structures that make up the Market and it continues today as a thriving and exciting place to visit and shop along the Seattle waterfront.

 

Hendersonville North Carolina Hits It Out Of The Park

I’m not sure why we selected Hendersonville to stay. We were on a trip around the North Carolina mountains and it was in the neighborhood of Asheville and Chimney Rock. It also had two wineries with good reviews nearby. It was probably the wineries that sealed the deal…

For a small town Hendersonville North Carolina hits it out of the park. Main Street is what every town should aspire to. The main business district is probably ten blocks long and each block has its own public space. Most include planters and outdoor tables and chairs. We’re not sure what the locals do in January but in the summer they dine alfresco along Main Street. This strip of town offers a number of highly rated restaurants, a couple of coffee shops, an excellent bakery and several attractions that include a shark aquarium and a mineral museum (this is mining country).

We’ve run across cities decorated with brightly painted statues in a number of places that have featured cows, horses and dolphins and they seem to add something to scene. Hendersonville has bears. Perhaps a couple of dozen spaced up and down Main to good effect.

Main Street also has its own Mast General Store  and if you haven’t visited a Mast Store you are in for a treat. The Mast Store dates back to 1883 where it opened in the small community of Valle Crucis, which is now North Carolina’s first rural historic district. According to the owners traversing its creaking floorboards, you’ll find country gourmet foods, cast iron cookware, speckleware, old-fashioned toys, footwear for all walks of life, hardware, and even a pair of galluses, if you need them (and candy – lots of candy). For a number of reasons, most of them good, The Mast General Store has expanded throughout the Carolina mountains and is a tourist destination all in itself.

We spent the afternoon visiting two wineries, Burntshirt Vineyards and Saint Paul Mountain Vineyards  both worthy of a little time. We really liked the dry rose at Burntshirt and took some home with us. Also Burntshirt has a cafe and tasting room in Chimney Rock about a little over an hours drive north.

After checking into our hotel we discovered that the town had a free rock n roll concert and Corvette show that evening down on Main Street (every Friday in summer) which ended up topping off a pretty good visit.

If you are looking for a recommendation on where to eat – this is the Blue Ridge Mountains and home to arguably some of the best barbeque anywhere. We had dinner at the Flat Rock Wood Room, which had an extensive menu and really good pulled pork. We also were recommended to Moe’s down on Main but truth is we’ve been pleased with North Carolina barbeque almost everywhere we’ve gone.

In the future if you find yourself poking around the Carolina mountains add Hendersonville to your itinerary – you won’t be disappointed.

Asheville Heart of the North Carolina Mountains

Tucked away in the western North Carolina mountainDowntown Ashevilles is a city of remarkable blended cultures. Its roots are firmly planted in the Appalachian soil tilled by early Scots-Irish settlers. Clogging and bluegrass are still at home here in its lively music scene but so is jazz and rock n roll.

This mountain city is an interesting blend of cultures and traditions. Partly it’s streets seem like a refuge for the hippies of Haight-Ashbury but is also home to a number of stunning architectural gems as well as enchanting districts of winding streets, mixed in with shops, restaurants micro breweries, hip wine bars and galleries of mountain arts and crafts.

Downtown AshevilleWelcome to Asheville, the mountain city, home to one of America’s greatest and largest privately owned houses, The Biltmore Estate. The house was built in the late 19th century by George Washington Vanderbilt II a member of the railroad and steamship dynasty. Asheville is also a major waypoint on America’s favorite national park, The Blue Ridge Parkway which features the North Carolina Arboretum and the Southern Highland Folk Art Center.

After visiting the Blue Ridge Parkway, the mountain gardens, the Biltmore Estate what you realize is that walking around downtown Asheville is just fun. Shopping at the Mast General Store, visiting galleries like the converted old Woolworths store, sampling hand crafted chocolates and having happy hour at a local wine bar all adds up to a great day.

Beer, Hard Cider and Wine Oh My

Part of my families’ history is found in the North Carolina mountains and I remember visiting years ago and finding it almost impossible to find any Downtown Ashevillealcohol to drink. They called them “dry counties”. Well things have really changed. Asheville and the surrounding counties are home to a remarkable number of breweries, hard cider mills, distilleries and wineries:

  • Asheville Brewing Company – boasts a large list of craft brewed beer.
  • Archetype Brewing – West Asheville’s newest.
  • Asheville Distilling Company – located right next door to Highland Brewing.
  • Ben’s Tune Up – is an interesting spot is downtown with house brewed beer and sake.
  • Blue Ghost Brewing Company – just outside of Asheville offers a range of micro brews and barbeque.
  • Blue Mountain Pizza and Brew Pub – in Weaverville offering homemade ice cream, food and small batch craft beer for over 20 years.
  • Burial Beer – a micro brewery and a local favorite.
  • Brother Joe’s Coffee Pub – serving coffee by day and beer at night is the brewing location for Thirsty Monk in South Asheville.
  • Bhramari Brewhouse – located on the South Slope with good beer and good food.
  • Catawba Brewing – South Slope with live music.
  • Eluvium Brewing Company – a new Weaverville brewery.
  • French Broad Brewing – specializing in European Ales, with music three nights a week.
  • Green Man Brewing – known as the Green Mansion featuring Dirty Jacks, Green Man’s original tasting room.
  • Ginger’s Revenge – Ginger’s Revenge located on the fringes of the Asheville River Arts District specializes in alcoholic Ginger Beer.
  • Habitat Brewing Company – Habitat does small batch classic style craft ales.
  • Highland Brewing Co. – Asheville’s first brewery, features entertainment, a rooftop bar, and a meadow for concerts.
  • Hillman Beer – Located on Sweeten Creek Road in Biltmore Village, Hillman offers indoor and outdoor seating and entertainment.
  • Hi-Wire Brewing – located half a mile from Biltmore Estate.
  • Lexington Avenue Brewing – offers a variety of very good beers in downtown Asheville on Lexington Avenue.
  • Mills River Brewery – offers a wide selection of craft beers.
  • New Belgium – located in the Asheville River Arts District is the second location for a Colorado micro brewery.
  • Noble Cider – Asheville’s first hard cider company, Noble Cider specializes in craft cider made from freshly pressed apples.
  • One World Brewing – located down an alley in Downtown Asheville.
  • OysterHouse Brewing Company – a micro brewery and restaurant in West Asheville
  • Pour Taproom – Originally started in Asheville, Pour can now be found in Greenville, Charleston, Durham, Knoxville and Santa Cruz.
  • Sierra Nevada Brewery – opened a brewery just outside of South Asheville in Mills River. Features an impressive tasting room and restaurant .
  • Sweeten Creek Brewing – offering food and micro brew beer.
  • Thirsty Monk Downtown – since 2008 on Patton Avenue has three floors each offering a different theme. Also a Thirsty Monk Biltmore Park location.
  • Turgua Brewing Company – located in Fairview, has a focus on making beers featuring locally sourced ingredients.
  • Twin Leaf Brewery – a family friendly brewery on Asheville’s South Slope features beer and board games.
  • Urban Orchard – West Asheville’s first hard cidery offers cider and local craft beers, and light eats.
  • UpCountry Brewing – includes a stage for music, a restaurant, arcade and indoor/outdoor seating.
  • Wedge Brewery– in the River Arts District and Wedge at Foundation near Riverside Station is a favorite in Asheville.
  • White Labs Kitchen & Lab
  • Hop Brewing Company – in Buncombe County operates out of a train caboose.
  • Wicked Weed – Asheville’s iconic downtown brewery is now owned by AB InBev.
  • Zillicoah Beer Company – is one of Asheville’s newest breweries.

Downtown AshevilleThe region also offers a number of very good wineries including:

  • South Creek Winery (2240 S Creek Rd, Nebo, NC)
  • Belle Nicho Winery (525 Patton Valley Dr, Nebo, NC)
  • Silver Fork Vineyard (5000 Patton Rd, Morganton, NC)
  • Lake James Cellars (204 E Main St, Glen Alpine, NC)
  • Saint Paul Mountain Vineyards (588 Chestnut Gap Rd, Hendersonville)
  • Burntshirt Vineyards (2695 Sugarloaf Road, Hendersonville)

You Must Visit This Arboretum in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Arboretum in the Blue Ridge Mountains is a feast for the senses.

The North Carolina Arboretum is located on The Blue Ridge Parkway near the Asheville entrance at mile marker 393. The site offers acres of cultivated gardens and groomed trails featuring some of the most beautiful, native plants in the region. Admission is free but there is a $14 per car parking fee.

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